Knowledge base · Updated: July 2026 · Reading time: 5 min

Energy label A to G: what do the label classes mean?

The energy label divides homes into classes from A++++ (very efficient) to G (very inefficient). The class shows at a glance how energy-efficient a home is: the higher the A class, the lower the calculated energy use and, generally, the lower the energy bill. On this page we explain what each class means, what counts as a «good» label and which label suits your type of home.

The energy label classes at a glance

Since 2021 the energy label has been determined using the NTA 8800 calculation method. It expresses energy performance as primary fossil energy use (kWh per m² per year): the less fossil energy a home needs, the better the class. The full scale runs from A++++ to G:

Class	Meaning	Typical home
A++++	Extremely efficient — virtually energy-neutral	Very recent, gas-free new-build with solar panels
A+++ / A++ / A+	Very efficient	Modern, well-insulated new-build
A	Efficient	New-build or thoroughly renovated home
B	Good	Homes from the 1990s onwards
C	Average	Many 1970s–1980s homes
D / E	Moderately efficient	Partly insulated older homes
F / G	Inefficient	Pre-war or uninsulated properties

The exact threshold values per class depend on the type of home and are set by the calculation method; the advisor works them out during the survey. The typical homes above are a guideline — a well-renovated 1930s house can easily reach an A, while a poorly maintained new-build may disappoint.

What is a «good» energy label?

In short: anything from an A or B counts as a good, energy-efficient label. A C is average and still perfectly sellable. From D and lower there is usually a lot to gain from making the home more sustainable — and that is exactly where the opportunities lie, because insulation and a more efficient system not only lower your energy bill but also raise your label.

Note: there is no statutory «minimum class» for ordinary owner-occupied homes. A home with a G label may also be sold and rented out. The label does count towards the rental points (WWS) and increasingly towards the mortgage, for example for a green interest discount or extra borrowing capacity.

Which label will my home get?

The label is determined by the combination of construction year, insulation (roof, wall, floor, glazing), installations (heating, ventilation, solar panels) and floor area. Two homes that look identical can therefore still have a different class. You only get the exact label after an official on-site survey by a BRL 9500-certified advisor, who calculates the home according to NTA 8800 and registers the result in EP-online, the official register of the Dutch government (RVO).

One class higher?

Want to go from, say, a D to a B? The most effective steps are usually retrofitting roof, wall or floor insulation, HR++ glazing, and more efficient heat generation such as a (hybrid) heat pump or solar panels. Which measure gains the most for your home depends on the current situation. Read more in improving your energy label, or request tailored advice.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best energy label?

A++++ is the most efficient and therefore the best energy label class; G is the least efficient. The higher the A class, the lower the calculated primary fossil energy use of the home and the more energy-efficient the property.

What does energy label C mean?

Energy label C is an average label. The home is reasonably energy-efficient, but there is still room for improvement with, for example, extra insulation, better glazing or a more efficient heating system. Many 1980s and 1990s homes naturally score a B or C.

Which energy label does my home have?

That depends on the construction year, insulation, installations and floor area. You only get an official label after an on-site survey by a BRL 9500-certified advisor, who calculates the home according to NTA 8800 and registers the label in EP-online.

Is an A energy label always required?

No. A valid energy label is mandatory when selling or renting out, but the class does not matter for that — a home with a G label may also be sold or rented out. A higher class can, however, increase the sale value and the rental points.

Can I improve my energy label to a higher class?

Yes. Retrofitting roof, wall or floor insulation, double or HR++ glazing, a more efficient boiler or heat pump and solar panels often gain one or more label classes. During the survey you receive free personal improvement advice.

More in the knowledge base

• NTA 8800: the calculation method behind the label
• How long is an energy label valid?
• Improving your energy label: which measures pay off?
• What does an energy label cost?
• Energy label in the Groene Hart region

← Back to the knowledge base